A voir...A essayer...

Exodus to lake with healing powers and mystic wildlife

Story by JAMES KARIUKI
Publication Date: 03/01/2007

Local and foreign tourists are increasingly heading to Lake Bogoria in Nakuru District to sample its hot saunas, among other attractions.

The saunas, reputed to be rich in minerals and detoxifiers, are virtually free of charge. All that one has to do is stand close to a geyser and face the wind in minimal clothing.


Local resorts are also offering warm baths — said to be replete with healing qualities. These are in vogue lately, pulling in tourists by the dozen. The spas soothe the skin and help it attain a smooth and spotless sheen.

Other tourists are seeking more holistic attributes — mind-body healing and relaxation sessions.

Recently, when a United Kingdom-based refrigeration engineer came to Kenya for a week-long pilgrimage, he did not part with a cent at Lake Bogoria. He needed only a folding seat and a group of friends to chat with as he sat near geysers off Lake Bogoria.



Mr Zubair Khokhar and friends from the Gilani family (resident in Nakuru) kept moving round the geysers to be on the leeward side of the wind, thereby inhaling the healing vapours. Their bodies were drenched in condensed vapours.

Mr Khokhar has regularly visited Kenya over the past three years.

Geysers at Lake Bogoria National Park have pungent vapours. They spring from water fissures deep in the bowels of the earth, and have temperatures of 100 degrees centigrade and above.

School parties usually carry raw eggs to the park for super-boiled snacks. Accessories needed for this include polythene bags that are tied on long strings as the eggs boil.

Importance of geysers

Increased information on the importance of geysers — medically and economically — has led to the current exodus.

The park was established in 1974 and is managed by Baringo county council. It is the only one in Kenya with well-tarmacked roads. Visitors pay Sh100 entrance fee.

Lake Bogoria is in the North Rift tourist circuit, which has some of the world’s most popular attractions. But unlike most of these, the park is relatively unknown, due to ineffective marketing and poor infrastructure.

Many hotels have invested millions of shillings in spas and saunas to woo customers. They have posted promotional material on their websites and at selected tourist spots, alongside details on the traditional Big Five (elephant, rhino, buffalo, lion and giraffe).

Kenya and Ethiopia are so far the only African countries with geyser

Mrs Yasmine Gilani says she is less stressed now and her skin healthier after several visits to the spas.

The Kenya Tourism Board says increasing interest in spas could boost the local economy and create jobs for the youth, especially on the road to Lake Bogoria.

Currently, a mud bath pool is under construction. It will have naturally heated mineral rich water from springs emanating from nearby hills.

The circuit also boasts of Lake Baringo, the home of many hippos, crocodiles, islands and world class resorts.

But access to this lake is hampered by poor roads. For instance, the key Marigat-Lake Baringo Road is impassable in rainy seasons.

Half a kilometre stretch of the road was washed away last year and is yet to be repaired. A new high bridge should be built to accommodate storm waters. Sections of the road are currently submerged in rainwater, making the trip impossible.

On arrival at the lake’s shores, motorised boats are at hand to carry visitors to the tented Island Camp on Ol Kokwa Island. It is a popular hideout for honeymooners. Last year, the camp was voted variously as the country’s best kept secret.

Wear life jackets

All travellers must wear life jackets and receive safety instructions in case of a mishap on the lake.

Fishermen, however, use ancient dugout canoes made of light wood in their night expeditions. The lake is infested with hippos and crocodiles.

The Njemps community lives around Lake Baringo and on the island. Over the years, it has sought help from the Government to ease local hardships. The efforts are yet to bear fruits.

Jibrota rock is popular with mountaineers, who can regularly be seen on its peak sitting by a campfire. But the island is not popular with locals, many of whom believe it is haunted. Strange voices are allegedly heard at night near the rocks.

The drive from Lake Baringo’s shores to the Marigat turn-off towards Kabarnet Town is enjoyable, as the road is tarmacked and the scenery beautiful.

Public transport between lakes Bogoria and Baringo is adequate.

The North Rift circuit enjoys a smooth drive to Kabarnet and onwards to Rimoi Game Reserve, managed by Kenya Wildlife Service. These are famous for a wide variety of wild animals and more than 330 bird species.

The little known Rimoi reserve has some of the largest elephants in Kenya, but it is barely accessible by road. All the key routes have been cut off by floods.

Agrotourism is yet another attraction, what with the vast wheat farms of Uasin Gichu District and the lush tea bushes of Nandi district. The entire route is accessible by matatu.

Nandi Tea Estates managing director Titus Kipyab says: “Agro-tourism is welcome. Locals have lately been visiting our factory to see how tea is processed.”